Fourteener Fever

At this time of year many of Colorado's ski mountaineering community is infected with what I call Fourteener Fever - a quest to climb and ski Colorado's peaks above 14,000 feet. This illness has really taken hold since the "Ski the 14ers Project" when Chris Davenport successfuly skied all the peaks in one calendar year. Completion of such a project is without doubt a major accomplishment and is reserved for the elite ski mountaineer. Indeed only a handful have been successful so far.

Although I have a mild infection of Fourteener Fever, I am realistic as to my abilities and know that I will never join this exclusive club. However, not wanting to be left out of all the fun on Colorado's highest peaks, I have put together the "ASS on the 14er's Project". ASS means Almost Ski on Some and is an achievable goal for those who have full time jobs, difficulty in finding like minded partners and small cojones. Any kind of attempt on a 14er counts as a success. My past accomplishments have ranged from arriving at a trailhead, not liking the weather and going home (Torreys) to skiing from the summit down an aesthetic and somewhat gnarly line (Sneffels).

This weekend I had the opportunity to add to my ASS 14er list, joining a group of hard-charging folks some of whom are part of the real 14er club and others who are well on their way to joining it. At the time of our trip my friend Brittany Walker was only four 14ers away from completing the list. One of the remaining was 14,159 foot El Diente Peak in the San Juan mountains, so that's where we went. 

A painful but necessary 3 a.m. start saw us skinning through the dark woods negotiating the occassional obstacle. Brittany deftly shows that skiing Capitol Peak is just one of the many extreme skiing techniques she has up her sleeve. 

After a couple of hours of groggy marching, the pre-dawn sky began to lighten. As the sun rose, so did our spirits but we kept moving on, knowing later in the day we would value every minute before the sun superheated the snow. 

At the Rock of Ages saddle we had the first view of our goal for the day. The line we hoped to ski is known as the north couloir and drops from the ridge, lookers left of the summit and below the rock pillars known as the Organ Pipe Gendarmes. From this aspect the mountain looks big and intimidating and the line long and steep.

We ripped off the skins and weaving between the blue shadows of dawn, skied 1,500 feet of fresh powder into Navajo Basin. At the base of El Diente's north face, another quick switcheroo, this time crampons replaced skis and up we booted with Frank Konsella leading the way. 

I love snow climbing. Elevating further into the alpine world with the steady rhythm of kicking steps. The tempo occassionally interrupted with a turn of the head which reveals incredible views of surrounding peaks and the yawning valley below. 

Brittany high up on the face with Gladstone Peak in the distance:

After a couple of hours of booting we reached the summit ridge and scrambled along the arrete, crampons skidding over rock. Unfortunately we were turned around just 100 feet shy of the summit. The snow ramp that Frank had previously skied wasn't in and the rocky ridge required a rope, which we didn't have, for safe passage. Disappointed we downclimbed to the top of the north couloir and prepped to ski. The first couple of turns were a little sporty (at least for me, the one with small cojones), but the soft snow took the edge off the exposed high 40 degree terrain. 

Pete Sowar skis into the top of the couloir, with Wilson Peak, Gladstone Peak and Mt Wilson as backdrop (L to R):

Frank makes his move:

Lower down the face the powder became deeper and the slope angle shallower so we could open it up. Here Pam Rice tears it up:

 Powder in the middle of May!! Heck yeah!

After 8 hours on the go it was time to stop and refuel, the line we skied above the gang:

 Disappointed that a summit ski had not been possible Brittany, Pam and Frank decided to head back up El Diente via another route. For me however, El Diente Peak had just received a big gold star on my ASS 14er list so I counted my chickens and decided to head on home.

What a great day in the mountains! Thanks everyone for being ASS 14er accomplices and best of luck with the Fourteener Fever.