Don’t let the name fool you ­—No Coast is a tasty sushi stop

QUICKREAD

If you go

• What: No Coast Sushi

• Where: 1119 N. First St., No. 11

• Contact: 255-1097

• Hours: 5–11 p.m., Monday through Saturday



No Coast? No problem.

Grand Junction is roughly 1,000 miles from the West Coast and more than 2,000 miles from the East Coast.

But with thrice-a-week seafood deliveries to No Coast Sushi, the unmistakable smell of the sea wafts into this land-locked location.

No Coast receives the fresh ocean bounty on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Sushi lovers set their Blackberries by it. Octopus, marlin, salmon, yellowtail and albacore.

Some friends — self-admitted foodies and reluctant escapees from San Francisco — steered us to their favorite sushi spot.

Yep, with apologies to The Godfather, we were swimming with the fishies.

No Coast is spawned from Suehiro Japanese Restaurant & Sushi. Head sushi chef Christopher Boyd, who along with his wife Elizabeth owns No Coast, is the son of Suehiro matriarch Sumiko Boyd.

Suehiro excels in the traditional and No Coast takes things to the edge with non-traditional ingredients such as yams, ceviche, Napa cabbage, mango, jalapenos and edamame hummus.

First on the plate were two appetizers: the gyoza with steamed beef, pork and vegetable pot stickers with spicy sesame ponzu and the negi beef with wafer-thin slices of sirloin wrapped around scallions and grilled.

Even if you don’t order the gyoza, ask for a side of ponzu sauce. It’ll come in handy for dipping during the rest of the dinner.

It would have been easy to order the edamame or calamari, but I’m glad we tried these two. They both were excellent.

Known as jiaozi in China, the popular pot stickers have spread to other cuisines including Japan (gyoza or kanji), Nepal (mo mo) and pot stickers (United States). The tasty, bite-size dumplings are morphing and multiplying all over the globe.

Next up, the four of us ordered four sushi rolls to share. I can recommend the following.

Special of the day: yellowtail tuna with a reduction sauce of strawberry pico de gallo.

Spicy tuna.

White star with avocado, scallions and smelt roe in tempura crumbs. The Japanese aren’t shy about calling fish eggs what they are, roe. Not caviar, just roe. And they harvest any edible part of the fish.

Wasabi nut crunch, broiled yellowtail with cream cheese, sriracha, pineapple and wasabi rolled in crushed cashews. Crunchy on the outside and briny spicy on the inside. That was something to chew on.

To wash it all down, Sapporo beer and plain Jane house saki. If your taste buds tell you to venture, No Coast serves many flavors of saki including purple haze and all the fruity varieties.

This meal ticket for four was $83.97, including drinks, appetizers, rolls and dessert, a plateful of raspberry-filled dumplings in a chile chocolate sauce.

Some other things that looked interesting: The cougar, fried oysters wrapped in marlin and flying fish roe; the dynamite mussels, green-lipped mussels baked in dynamite sauce; the curry lobster, fried yam, lobster, roma tomatoes and basil in coconut curry sauce; and the surf and turf, tempura shrimp, enoki mushrooms, crab with blackened beef in eel sauce.

Sushi, like barbecue, engenders strong opinions. I’m not trying to start a sushi war here, but this was our positive experience at one GJ joint.

Here’s a comment from tripadvisor.com: “No Coast is like Casa Bonita (schlocky Denver restaurant that kids LOVE) for grown-ups except it has amazing food and no cliff divers.

A SPOON FULL OF HONEY: Meadery of the Rockies won four medals at The Mazer Cup international mead competition held in Boulder.

The Palisade meadery won silver medals for Blackberry Satin and Lancelot honey wines. Taking home a bronze medal were the Raspberry Chocolate Satin and Guinevere.

The Meadery competed against entrants from across North America and Europe.

I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM: Cold Stone Creamery will give any mom a free “like-it” ice cream creation this Sunday. Of course, the kids are going to want something, too. 2474 U.S. Highway 6&50.

ANDALE, ANDALE: A reader tells me I was remiss in last week’s Cinco de Mayo column for not mentioning the bunuelos and green chile at Los Reyes, 811 S. Seventh St.

Stayed tuned here for more discussion on Mexican food in the Grand Valley.

QUOTE: “Ever wonder about those people who spend $2 apiece for those little bottles of Evian water? Try spelling Evian backward.” — George Carlin

E-mail Tess Furey with tips and ideas at .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).


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