Culture clash: tourism vs. oil and gas in Moab
As a benefit for a local nonprofit, we had organized a canoe trip on the Green River near Moab to paddle 60 miles from Geyser Springs to Mineral Bottom. Colorado’s Centennial Canoe Outfitters claims this is “part of the longest stretch of quiet wilderness water in the western United States.” We had plans to launch on June 7. What we hadn’t planned on was the May 21 oil spill in Salt Wash that dumped 3,000 to 4,000 gallons of oil mixed with water per hour into the river from a 45-year-old well.
Welcome to the 21st century West where energy extraction in remote places is colliding head-on with outdoor recreation in those same remote locales. Moab, Utah, famous for bumper stickers that read “New York, Paris, Moab” has been discovered by hordes of American, European and Asian tourists. It has also been discovered, or rather rediscovered, by oil and gas companies using fracking technology to drill deep wells.
The June 4-10 edition of the Moab Sun News proudly headlined “Tourism stats jumped in 2013.” Statistics show a geometric upward trend with 270,000 visitors to Arches National Park in 1979 and 1 million visitors in 2013 for a fourth consecutive year. Indeed, Moab has become a mountain-bike mecca, a home for hikers, a departure point for dozens of daily raft trips on the Colorado River and a launching site for serious whitewater fanatics seeking to test their quick reflexes in Cataract Canyon. On a summer evening tourists walk shoulder to shoulder on Main Street and vendors hawk everything from T-shirts to water bottles and even miniature sandstone sculptures of Delicate Arch.
“Moab went fishing for tourism and caught a shark,” laments Jim Stiles, publisher of the Canyon Country Zephyr, which is now online. He moved out. As well, the old local families who felt comfortable with jeans, work boots and yellowcake dust in their hair have looked askance at the legions of Lycra-clad cyclists who ride the same trails that surplus World War II jeeps pioneered in the uranium boom of the 1950s. Those families have not wanted jobs in the tourist sector. Now, instead of Subarus and SUVs with bike racks, new vehicles in town are diesel pickup trucks with Oklahoma and Texas license plates and arc welders in the back.
“Just like everybody else in America, Moab is polarized. We need oil and gas but why here? And then when the spill occurred, for conservationists it was horrible. A wake-up call. Within a day and a half an oil sheen hit Lake Powell,” said Jesse Marshall, who owns Coyote Shuttle. “Every time you turn around there’s a new well going in. It’s amazing, truly amazing.”
A recent town meeting in Moab brought dozens of interested and vocal citizens to comment on the new oil and gas boom. Not all comments remained civil. Letters to the Bureau of Land Management ran strongly against increased oil and gas development. As Moab’s tourism industry has mushroomed in the last two decades so have the businesses supporting tourists. Those business owners do not want wellheads adjacent to trailheads. Fears grow about irreconcilable differences between a booming year-round tourist economy and oil and gas exploration utilizing the same good weather and easy road access.
A tiny oil boom occurred near Moab in the early 1900s. Wildcatters returned in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. Then Moab placed its bets on the winning card of tourism. Now the oil companies are back, leasing motels for their workers. As Marshall explains, “This boom is bigger than ever because of the new drilling technology. There’s so much oil and gas here,” but he cautions, “In Moab the biggest industry is tourism. To have this beautiful country changed by stinky air and polluted water for the sake of a few hundred jobs — it’s just not right.”
Workers will drill new wells. The old well that blew out on May 21 was contained by May 22 but then heavy rains flooded the site and more produced water and oil spilled into the Green River. The BLM is reviewing leasing areas in a Moab master leasing plan. Both old and new wells should be taken into account and safety procedures mandated.
“The Green River’s Labyrinth Canyon is world-renowned for its scenic beauty and its outstanding river recreation opportunities for visitors and local families and businesses alike,” said Liz Thomas, attorney for the Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance in the Moab Sun News. She’s right. We were there to canoe Labyrinth and we hiked into Trin Alcove, lazily drifted around the Bowknot Bend, and camped in Horseshoe Canyon on Barrier Creek. We also saw the remains of a previous energy boom.
Because of high water and the Green running at 20,000 cubic feet per second, we waded through the willows and tamarisk to camp near an abandoned uranium mine. What did that energy boom leave in the Green River corridor at the Hey Joe Mine? A loading station for uranium ore, a rusted Allis Chalmers bulldozer and scattered industrial artifacts such as oil drums, compressors, truck cabs and stoves — all ventilated with bullet holes.
We saw no oil sheen. We heard delightful bird songs in the morning, discovered 800-year-old Fremont era rock art and even spied a prehistoric stacked stone lookout high on a narrow cliff ledge. During a five-day float we saw only one other boating party, so we had time among ourselves to talk, laugh, sing and wish the beer was colder.
On our last day during a silent morning float we detected the faint buzz of mosquitos, not yet ready to sting, so our timing had been perfect and we missed the June hatch. We unloaded our gear, had lunch and took the shuttle up the winding dirt road from Mineral Bottom. We’d had five glorious days without cell phones or computers or news. On the way into town as the road changed from gravel to pavement we passed the entrance to Island in the Sky, one of the most famous vistas in all of Canyonlands.
A new gas well stood near the turnoff. Another drilling rig was just going up.